On May 11, 2016, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration issued its final reporting rules that expand the collection of injury data from private employers in certain industries. Starting in 2017, the new rules will require employers in high-hazard industries to upload its OSHA 300A injury and illness data directly to OSHA. The agency will remove […]

via OSHA’s new rule requires injury data reporting (starting 2017) — Florida Small/Mid Business HR Blog

Patch a Tear in a Metal Gutter


Patch a Tear in a Metal Gutter

 

Step 1. Clean the Area Use the extension ladder with the ladder stabilizer to reach the top of the gutters. Make sure you brace the feet of the ladder before you step on. Clean the damaged area with a wire brush and then go over it with an abrasive pad to smooth. Wash the dust and residue away and let it dry.

Caution: Stabilize the Ladder Use an adjustable ladder stabilizer that attaches to your ladder and braces on the roof. This helps keep the ladder from slipping and it also allows you to work on the gutters that are directly in front of you. It is also important to brace the feet of the ladder. Put the ladder feet on blocks (to make them level) and then drive stakes into the ground so that they are right behind the ladder feet.

Step 2. Apply Roof Cement Cover the damaged area, plus a few inches outside, with roof cement using the putty knife. You want the cement to be about 1/8-inch thick.

Step 3. Fix Patch with Roof Cement Bend the flashing to fit the inside contours of the gutter. You want it to cover the damaged area and one side. Press the patch into the cement. With a little bit of roof cement, go over the edges of the patch. You want to feather the edges of the cement so a dam doesn’t form. Do this by using more pressure at the edges of the cement, thereby making it thinner.

Greener Options


Products and advice for environmentally friendly living

Make a difference with Greener OptionsSM

Making the switch to environmentally friendly products is as easy as shopping at your local True Value. The Greener Options program helps you make the right product choices for the environment and your world. With hundreds of items available, your ability to make a difference starts here.

©2008 True Value Company. All rights reserved.

Maintain a beautiful lawn & garden without pesticides.

Plants that are chemically fertilized may look lush, but traditional fertilizing promotes plants that are more susceptible to disease. Chemicals from the fertilizer infuse the soil and, ultimately, contaminate our water supply. Using an all-natural fertilizer balances the pH of the soil, is environmentally safe and not harmful to animals, plants or you.

What you put on your walls should stay on your walls.

According to the EPA, indoor air is considered to be one of the top five hazards to human health. Traditional household paint contains toxins that can still be released into the air years after application. Use low-VOC products for better air quality.

Make the switch to CFL bulbs. Consider using compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs). You’ll lower your electric bill and pay less in the long run—CFLs last up to 10 times longer than traditional bulbs. To save even more on lighting, install dimmer switches and use timers, both indoors and out. You’ll find a complete selection of CFL bulbs, dimmer switches and timers at your local True Value.

Conserve water and lower your water bills. Install water- efficient showerheads. With the new low-flow models now available, a family of four can cut water usage by as much as 280 gallons a month—and yet not feel much difference in water pressure.

Statistical information from epa.gov

Your Greener Options

Shopping List

Make the world a more sustainable place with the right products from True Value.

All-natural,  organic ingredients won’t contaminate the water supply

Organic Potting Mix

Compost Maker

Plant and mineral-based natural cleaning products

Mini compact fluorescent bulbs use less energy and last longer

✓ CFL Bulbs

Solar LIghting

Light Timers

Low-VOC products reduce toxic emissions

✓ Silicone Window & Door Caulk

Porch & Floor Coating

Low-VOC Paint

Increased water pressure results in less water used

✓ Water Timers

Fill Valves

Water-Amplifying Shower Head

Need help finding these products? Just ask the friendly experts right here.

Build a Closet Organizer


 

Build a Closet Organizer From Truevalue.com

Closets are one of the most used areas of a house and usually the least organized. With a little work you can double your closet’s storage capacity and nicely organize it. So instead of spending time searching for clothes you can do more productive things – like shop for them.

This project is an easy-to-make system that’s adaptable to fit your needs and is a fraction of the price of store-bought kits. It combines a shelving unit in the middle (you can leave it open or add drawers) with two rods on one side (for short clothes like shirts, pants, sport coats, etc.) and one rod for long clothes (dresses, coats, etc.) on the other side. There are storage shelves over the rods as well.

 

Tools Checklist

□ Block of wood

□ Hammer

□ Flat pry bar

□ Stud finder

□ Pliers

□ Tape measure

□ Level

□ Pencil

□ Saber saw

□ Masking tape

□ Sandpaper

□ Paint brushes

□ Hacksaw

□ Electric drill with screwdriver attachment

 

 

Materials Checklist

□ Primer

□ Paint

□ 2-pcs. of ¾-in. plywood (20-in. deep and your selected height) for unit

□ ¾-in. plywood (20-in. deep & your selected width) for shelves

□ 2-pcs. of ¾-in. plywood shelving that are 12-in. deep and long enough to go from side of unit to wall

□ 2 closet flanges with the diameter of closet rod

□ 3 closet rods (you determine length)

□ 24-in. long 1×2 wood

□ 1-in. screws (approximately 18)

□ ½-in. screws (approximately 20)

□ 4 shelving standards

□ 4 shelf clips for each shelf

□ 4 angle brackets

□ 4 combination brackets

□ 2, 2-in. screws

□ Drawers with runners (optional)

 

 

Step 1. Disassemble the Closet

It is important to completely remove and save the existing shelf and pole parts from the closet because you can reuse them. A shelf and pole system is easy to remove without damage because the individual parts are usually not glued together. The order of removal is important. First, remove the clothes pole and the center support bracket (if one exists). Next, use a block of wood and a hammer at the underside of the shelf and tap upward to remove it. The block, placed between the shelf and the hammer, reduces the chance of splitting wood. Finally, remove the support strips (you will not need to remove the pole brackets from the side supports) with a hammer and a flat pry bar.

 

Tip: Using the Pry Bar

Prying between the support strip and the wallboard can damage the wallboard. So, make sure to pry at locations on the wall where studs exist. Don’t drive nails back through the parts that you have removed. Doing so may damage the finished surface. Instead use a pair of pliers to pull the nails through the bottom side of the shelf and the backside of the support strips.

 

Step 2. Design the Closet Organizer Use a stud finder to locate the studs behind the closet walls. Then use a tape measure to get the dimensions of your closet and the distance between the studs. Measure your longest short clothes already hanging and add 3 inches. The lower rod on the side with 2 rods should be 3 inches lower than the bottom of the short clothes to give room for the hangers. Remember, the brackets at the ends of the rods need to be attached to studs. The sides of the shelving unit attach to studs as well. See diagram in Step 4 for recommended measurements of shelves and rods.

 

Step 3. Draw Level Layout Lines Measure where the top shelves over the rods are going to be. Use a level and mark in pencil a line long enough to be a guide for the shelf brackets.

 

 

Step 4. Cut Plywood for Shelving Sides and Over-the-Rod Shelves Use the saber saw to cut the 2 side pieces for the shelving unit as well as the 2 shelves for over the closet rods. When cutting the plywood, the front (finished side) needs to face down to avoid splintering it. To keep from splintering the back, cover the cut line with masking tape before you cut. Sand the shelves and sides. The shelves for the unit are cut in Step 8.

 

Step 5. Paint Shelving Sides and Over- the-Rod Shelves Apply primer and paint to the shelves and the sides. It is easier to paint these before you put them up. The shelves for the shelving units are painted in Step 8.

 

Step 6. Attach Standards to Shelving Unit Use a hacksaw to cut the shelving standards so that they are long enough to run from the top of the shelving side to the bottom. Attach standards, using 1/2-inch screws, on both sides of each shelving side. They are placed 1-inch in from the front and back ends. There are numbers stamped on the standard and they should be right side up.

 

Step 7. Attach Sides of Shelving Unit

Attach an angle bracket to the top and the bottom of the shelving side using the 1/2-inch screws. Place the side at a right angle to the wall and use the level to make sure the side is vertical. The side needs to be positioned so that the other end of the angle bracket is on the stud. Mark on the wall where the holes in the angle bracket are. Drill 1-inch screws through the bracket, attaching it to the wall stud. Repeat with the other side. (See diagram at left.)

 

Step 8. Cut and Paint Shelves for Unit Measure the shelves to make sure they fit between the shelving standards. Cut and sand if they are too wide. Paint the shelves and allow them to dry. Put the shelf clips into the standards (count the holes in the standard or use the numbers stamped on the standard as guides so the clips are at the same height) and insert the shelves.

 

Step 9. Attach Upper Shelves and Rod Brackets Attach the combination brackets to the wall studs using the 1-inch screws. Use the lines marked on the wall as guides. Put the rod into the combination bracket and attach the shelf to the bracket, using 1-inch screws. Repeat this for the other shelf with a rod.

 

Step 10. Attach Lower Rod On the wall, measure down the wall to where you are putting the closet rod and make a mark. Measure 12-inches from the back of the closet and mark so that you have an “X” where the rod goes. Mark 2 lines with a pencil that are 1 inch above and 1-inch below the “X”. Find the studs on either side of the “X” and measure the distance between the two studs. Cut the 1×2 board that length, this is what the flange is affixed to. Using the 2-inch screws, attach the 1×2 piece to the studs. The piece should be between the two lines. Measure the distance from the 1×2 to the shelving side. Cut the closet rod ¼-inch shorter than this distance (this makes it easier to slide the rod into place). Slip the 2 flanges onto the rod, one for each end. Slide the rod into position. Use the level to make the rod horizontal. Attach the flange to the 1×2 using 1-inch screws and attach the other flange to the shelving side using 1/2-inch screws.

 

Step 11. Install Drawers (optional) If you want drawers, you can attach drawer runners to the side or bottom of the shelves in the shelving unit. Attach these runners using the 1/2-inch screws. If the runners go on the sides, you might have to cut them so that they fit between the shelving standards.

 

For more decorating & home improvement projects visit http://www.truevalue.com before you start!

Install a Dimmer Switch


Tools & Materials Checklist

_ Standard screwdriver

_ Wire cutter/stripper

_ Neon circuit tester

_ Wire connectors

_ Tape (if needed)

_ Switch cover (if needed)

_ Single-pole or three-way dimmer

Switch

Install a Dimmer Switch

From Truevalue.com

Replacing a simple on-off light switch with a dimmer makes your lighting more adaptable to changing needs. Buy a single-pole dimmer for a circuit with an outlet controlled from only one location and a three-way dimmer for a circuit with an outlet controlled from two switch locations.

Step 1. Turn off the Power

At your main electric panel, shut off the circuit breaker (or remove the fuse) for the circuit that feeds the switch.

Caution:

If there are others in the house that might turn it back on, place a piece of tape over the breaker or

door as a reminder.

Step 2. Remove the Switch

Remove the screws that secure the switch plate and the switch. Pull the switch out of the box. To verify that power has indeed been shut off, touch one probe of a neon circuit tester to one of the terminal screws and the other to the metal outlet box, a white neutral wire, or a bare (or green) ground wire. Repeat, moving the probe to the other switch terminal.

Caution:

It is dangerous and illegal to overcrowd a switch box. The size of the box, the gauges of the wires, the number of devices, and other factors determine the number of wires allowed. Consult a licensed electrician or electrical inspector if you have any doubts.

Step 3. Disconnect Wires

From a single-pole switch:

Disconnect both black wires and the bare or green ground wire from the switch. Either loosen the terminal screws or insert a small screwdriver into the rectangular hole adjacent to the wire depending on where the connections are made.

From a three-way switch:

One of the wires is connected under a different colored screw or is plugged into a hole in the rear of the switch labeled “Common.” Tag this wire with a piece of tape.

Tip: Choosing the Correct Switch

Make sure that the total maximum wattage allowed for all the light fixtures that will be controlled by a single dimmer does not exceed the maximum wattage rating on the dimmer. For example, if you have six lights, each rated for a maximum 100W lamp, you will need at least a 600W dimmer. Incidentally, low-voltage lighting requires low-voltage controls, and most fluorescent lights cannot be controlled by dimmers. Once you know the right capacity, you need to choose from the various types of controls — pushon/

push-off, rotate-on/rotate-off, knob, slide, touch-activated, toggle switch with slide, or other methods.

Step 5. Wire the Dimmer

a. For a single-pole circuit:

If there is a green ground wire on the switch, connect it to the green or bare wire from the outlet box. Connect one of the dimmer wires to each of the wires that you removed from the switch. Twist on wire connectors until they are tight and so no bare wire is exposed at the base of the connectors.

b. For a three-way circuit:

If there is a green ground wire on the switch, connect it to the green or bare wire from the outlet. Connect the black dimmer wire to the wire that you taped. Connect each of the red dimmer wires to one of the wires removed from the old switch.

Step 6. Secure the Switch

Gently bend the wires as needed to install the switch in the outlet box. Secure the switch to the box with the two screws provided. Adjust the switch so it is plumb (straight up and down) and centered in the box before the final screw tightening.

Step 7. Cover and Test

Install the switch cover and restore power in order to test how the dimmer operates. Depending upon the style of the new switch, you may need to replace the cover with one that suits the new dimmer.

Step 4. Prepare the Wires

Cut off the exposed portion of each wire and use a wire stripper to remove the correct amount of insulation, which varies according to wire gauge. (Remove 3/8 inch for 14-gauge and 1/2 inch for 10- or 12-gauge.) The switch wires should already be stripped, but if not, prepare them the same way.

To see diagrams, follow this link: https://www.membersonline.com/mol/assets/40/3323/InstallDimmerSwitch1.pdf

For more home improvement projects, visit www.truevalue.com

Painting Kitchen Cabinets


Tools & Materials Checklist
□ Screwdriver
□ Newspaper
□ TSP (trisodium phosphate)
□ Sponge
□ Bucket
□ Sandpaper (coarse & fine grit)
□ Masking tape
□ 2-Qts. Primer (water or oil-base)
□ 1-Gal. Oil-base paint (satin, gloss or semi-gloss)
□ 2-1/2” Natural bristle brush
□ Paint tray
□ Two tray liners
□ Roller handle
□ 2 or 3 roller sleeves (lamb’s wool)
□ Paint thinner
□ Can (coffee can or large soup can)
Painting Kitchen Cabinets
From Truevalue.com
If you are remodeling your kitchen, or just want to give it a quick face-lift and don’t want to spend a lot of money, consider repainting your cabinets. You can brighten your whole kitchen by painting your wood or veneer cabinets a fresh color. We recommend the EZ-Kare line to paint because cabinets get used a lot and EZ-Kare is durable enough to withstand everyday use.
The easiest way to do this project is to leave the inside of the cabinets alone. The inside is only seen when the cabinet is open so it isn’t as important. Also, if you paint the inside of the cabinet you would have to take everything out that is in them. Even without painting the insides, this project takes three days so plan to do it when you have the time.
Caution: The fumes from the paint and the primer can get intense so you need to make sure that some windows or doors are open. Don’t make this a winter project.
Step 1. Remove Cabinet Hardware & Protect Surrounding Areas Remove the door handles, hinges and knobs using a screwdriver. If your cabinets use magnetic closures, take them off as well. Some doors have inside hinges that aren’t on the face of the cabinet, in this case it would be acceptable to leave them on. Put newspaper on the countertops and on the floor to protect them from the paint.
Tip: Sandpaper Know-How Sandpaper comes in a range of grit or coarseness. There are very coarse papers to very fine. This range is numbered with the coarsest having the smallest number and the finest the largest. A good coarse paper is number 80. A good fine paper for this project is a 200 to 300.
Step 2. Clean Cabinets Clean with TSP. This is a powder, so you need to mix it with water in a bucket. Wash the doors and the exterior of the cabinet facades and the front and sides of the cabinet using a sponge. Let the cabinets dry, then sand them with coarse-grit sandpaper. You want to give the surface a rough texture so the primer grips. Sand until the shiny surfaces are dull.
Tip: Oil vs. Water-Based Primer Generally, the oil-based primer works well because the paint really sticks to it. Although, there are now water-based primers that work just as well, plus they don’t smell as much. Check with our store’s Paint Pro for advice.
Step 3. Prime Cabinets Apply primer with a roller and brush to the front and back of the doors first, then do the cabinet facades. When working on the doors hold them open with the tip of your finger. When you have used the roller as much as you can, go back with the brush and prime any areas you couldn’t reach.
Step 4. Prime & Paint Hinges (Optional)
You can prime and paint the hinges while they are off the doors so they match or contrast with the cabinets. It’s easier if you use a can of spray primer and spray paint in order for the paint to get in all of the small crevices and holes on the hinges. Let them dry overnight.
Step 5. Cleanup Clean the brush using paint thinner. Throw away the roller tray liner and the sleeve.
Step 6. Paint First Coat Paint the cabinet with the first coat of paint. Follow the same pattern that you used for priming the cabinet. Let the paint dry for 24 hours.
Step 7. Do a Partial Clean-Up Pour some paint thinner into a can and soak the brush overnight. Put the sleeve into an air-tight zip-lock bag so you can use it again tomorrow. Pour any excess paint back into the can and close it up.
Step 8. Apply Final Coat Lightly sand any bubbles that formed in the first coat of paint using the fine-grit sandpaper. Be careful not to take off the paint you just put on. Apply the final coat of paint. By now you should know where the roller can’t reach so you can do the brushwork first, then the roller. Reuse your old roller unless it hardened overnight. After you have finished applying the final coat you are finished. The surface should dry for 24 hours before reattaching the doors but be careful for a couple of weeks since it can still scratch.
Step 9. Final Cleanup Clean the brush in the can of paint thinner. Throw away the roller sleeve and the tray liner. Clean off the handle with paint thinner. Some states don’t allow you to dump paint thinner down the drain, so make sure you find out first.