Install a Garbage Disposal

Tools & Materials
□ Groove-joint pliers
□ Hacksaw
□ Dishpan
□ Garbage disposal
□ Slotted screwdriver
□ Plumber’s putty
□ Electrical supplies (as needed)
□ Plastic waste piping and fittings
□ Hose clamp for dishwasher
Install a Garbage Disposal
Garbage disposals are efficient, safe and virtually trouble-free devices that anyone who knows how to use a screwdriver and wrench can install in a few hours. Batch-feed models, touted for their safety, are similar to a food processor. Once it is filled with waste, it’s activated when the sink plug is twisted into the sink opening. Whereas, a continuous-feed disposal is operated by a switch on the wall or cabinet, and runs continuously while waste is fed into the grinding chamber.
Cold water must be kept running while a disposal is in operation. The water cools and lubricates the grinding parts and helps to send the pulverized waste down the drain.
Step 1.  Remove Drain
Remove the existing waste (drain) pipes from the sink strainer to the threaded fitting at the wall or floor (stubout). If the removed piping is plastic with compression (threadedtype) fittings, you can possibly reuse it. But if the pipe is welded or metal, throw it away. Unscrew the fittings by hand or with groove-joint pliers and use a hacksaw to cut the welded pipe.
Tip: Catch Standing Water

Place a plastic dishpan under the drain trap to catch standing water as
you either remove the drain plug, if there is one, or disconnect the trap.
Step 2. Replace Sink Strainer
Remove the sink strainer fitting that is secured to the sink bowl. One type of strainer is held with a large lock nut, but there are types that use three screws. In its place, install the flange that comes with the disposer. Apply plumber’s putty under its lip (as pictured) to form a seal with the sink bowl.
Step 3. Install Mounting Assembly
Slip the mounting assembly gasket and mounting and retaining rings over the neck of the sink flange and tighten the screws. First tighten one, then the others a little at a time until the gasket and flange are both tight to the sink bowl. Remove excess putty from around the flange inside the sink.
Step 4. Mount Disposal
Before you mount the disposal, make the wiring connections at the disposal (as pictured). Be sure to allot enough cable to extend to the power source (see Step 6). Reattach the drain elbow. If you have a dishwasher, prepare the disposal drain following the manufacturer’s instructions. Slip the disposal’s
slotted flange over the mounting bolts.
Step 5. Connect Plastic Waste Pipe
Connect a two-piece tubular P-trap to the drain elbow and the drain fitting at the wall (stubout). As needed, cut the P-trap and rotate both the trap section of the P-trap and the disposal. Complete tightening the waste pipe fittings and the disposal. Connect any dishwasher hose to the disposal’s drain fitting with a stainless steel hose clamp (as pictured).
Tip: Waste Connection

The waste connection shown in this project is typical. If yours is more complex, make a dimensioned sketch and bring it back to your True Value store for the appropriate recommendations.
Step 6. Power Connection
If you have electrical wiring experience and plan to make the power connection to the disposal, be sure to first turn off the power before beginning the work. Disposals need to connect to a grounded 20-amp circuit. The steps in order to connect power differ with each type of disposal. For example, continuous-feed disposals are wired to an on/off switch (as pictured) located on a wall or in the sink cabinet. Whereas a batch-feed disposal has its own integral switch and is hard-wired or plugged directly to the wall outlet. It is best to have an electrician handle this part of the job
if you are not knowledgeable about local code requirements and basic electrical wiring.
Tip: Air Vents and Disposal Jams

Once in a while you will find that the air vent on the sink will overflow when the dishwasher is running. This is because the disposal has thrown waste into the dishwasher drain hose and has partially clogged it. When this happens, remove the hose from the disposal, clean it out with a hanger and replace the hose. If the disposal ever jams, quickly turn it off. Use the end of a wooden mop wedged against the opening of the disposal to loosen the blades that are located at the bottom of the disposal. In some instances, the reset button
(usually located at the bottom of the disposal) will have to be pushed in order to return power. Never discard rice, nut shells, pits, or fibrous waste into the disposal. And, for continuous-feed disposals, never force large volumes of anything at one time since it could cause a drain clog.

Repairing Metal Gutters

Repairing Metal Gutters From

Rain can bring life to your lawn and garden, but it can be murder on your house. Gutters take the brunt of the storms so they need to be examined and repaired immediately. If they aren’t, you may get extensive water damage to the outside and inside of your house. Clogged, dented or torn gutters can create pools of water on the roof or along the foundation which then leak into your basement.

There are many products that have been developed to prevent gutter clogs. Mesh gutter guards cover the gutter so leaves can’t get into it. To prevent debris from going down the downspout, there are downspout strainers. These items help prevent future problems, but there are some problems that you need to take care of now.

Some minor problems, such as holes and cracks, can be fixed simply by filling them with gutter caulk or by using a gutter patching kit. (These are applied to the inside of the gutter.) More serious problems, such as patching a tear or replacing a section of gutter, involve a little more work and are explained below. However, if you have extensive damage, you need to start over and install new gutters.

Materials Checklist

􀂉 Extension ladder (3-ft. above edge of roof for stability)

􀂉 Ladder stabilizer

􀂉 2 stakes and wooden blocks

􀂉 Wire brush

􀂉 Abrasive pad

􀂉 Small putty knife

􀂉 Roof cement

􀂉 Metal flashing (same metal as gutter & big enough to cover bottom/side of gutter

Replace a Section of a Gutter

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Materials List

􀂉 Extension ladder (3-ft. above edge of roof for stability)

􀂉 Ladder stabilizer

􀂉 2 stakes and wooden blocks

􀂉 4” long Wood spacer (as wide as gutter)

􀂉 Screwdriver or pry bar

􀂉 Little spacers (Dependant upon design of gutter)

􀂉 Hacksaw

􀂉 Gutter

􀂉 Wire brush

􀂉 Gutter caulk

􀂉 Electric Screwdriver

􀂉 6 sheet metal screws

Replace a Section of a Gutter

Step 1. Remove Gutter Hangers Use the ladder with the ladder stabilizer to reach the gutters. Make sure you brace the feet of the ladder. (See Safety Tip under Patch a Tear in a Metal Gutter.) Take off any gutter hangers that are in or around the damaged area using the screwdriver or pry bar; depending on what type of gutter hangers you have. Put the wood spacer in the gutter while you remove the hangers. This will prevent distortion while you apply pressure.

Step 2. Cut Out Damaged Area Slip the little spacers between the gutter and the wall. This protects the roof and wall when you are cutting the gutter. Cut out the damaged section of gutter using the hacksaw.

Step 3. Make Gutter Section Cut the new gutter section so that it is 4 inches longer than the damaged area that you cut out. Turn the gutter upside down and cut, making sure you have a solid base to work from.

Step 4. Position Gutter Section Use a wire brush and scrub the inside edges of the old gutter. Caulk the ends from the inside, about 2 inches on the sides and bottom of the gutter at each end. Then place the new piece into the old gutter. The new piece should be centered so that the caulk is covered on both ends. Press the new section into the caulk.

Step 5. Re-Hang the Gutters Screw or rivet the new pieces together using 3 on each side. Caulk over the screws that are exposed on the inside of the gutter. Reattach the gutter hangers.