On May 11, 2016, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration issued its final reporting rules that expand the collection of injury data from private employers in certain industries. Starting in 2017, the new rules will require employers in high-hazard industries to upload its OSHA 300A injury and illness data directly to OSHA. The agency will remove […]

via OSHA’s new rule requires injury data reporting (starting 2017) — Florida Small/Mid Business HR Blog

Help Protect your workers from Heat Related illness!


Who is affected?

Any worker exposed to hot and humid conditions is at risk of heat illness, especially those doing heavy work tasks or using bulky protective clothing and equipment.

What is heat illness?

The body normally cools itself by sweating. During hot weather, especially with high humidity, sweating isn’t enough. Body temperature can rise to dangerous levels if precautions are not taken.

How can heat illness be prevented?

Employers are responsible for providing workplaces that are safe from excessive heat. Employers should provide workers with water, rest and shade! Acting quickly can save lives!

  • OSHA’s key pieces of advice for workers are:
  • Drink water every 15 minutes, even if you’re not thirsty.
  • Rest in the shade to cool down.
  • Wear a hat and light-colored clothing.
  • Learn the signs of heat illness and what to do in an emergency.
  •  Keep an eye on fellow workers.

Remember these three simple words: Water, Rest, and Shade.

Taking these precautions can mean the difference between life and death. For this information and more at: https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/heatillness/index.html

Alert-O-Lite Inc. offers various heat prevention products, to keep you safe from the summer heat! Click the picture below to check them out!

heat_prevenntion_7-31-13

Patch a Tear in a Metal Gutter


Patch a Tear in a Metal Gutter

 

Step 1. Clean the Area Use the extension ladder with the ladder stabilizer to reach the top of the gutters. Make sure you brace the feet of the ladder before you step on. Clean the damaged area with a wire brush and then go over it with an abrasive pad to smooth. Wash the dust and residue away and let it dry.

Caution: Stabilize the Ladder Use an adjustable ladder stabilizer that attaches to your ladder and braces on the roof. This helps keep the ladder from slipping and it also allows you to work on the gutters that are directly in front of you. It is also important to brace the feet of the ladder. Put the ladder feet on blocks (to make them level) and then drive stakes into the ground so that they are right behind the ladder feet.

Step 2. Apply Roof Cement Cover the damaged area, plus a few inches outside, with roof cement using the putty knife. You want the cement to be about 1/8-inch thick.

Step 3. Fix Patch with Roof Cement Bend the flashing to fit the inside contours of the gutter. You want it to cover the damaged area and one side. Press the patch into the cement. With a little bit of roof cement, go over the edges of the patch. You want to feather the edges of the cement so a dam doesn’t form. Do this by using more pressure at the edges of the cement, thereby making it thinner.

Greener Options


Products and advice for environmentally friendly living

Make a difference with Greener OptionsSM

Making the switch to environmentally friendly products is as easy as shopping at your local True Value. The Greener Options program helps you make the right product choices for the environment and your world. With hundreds of items available, your ability to make a difference starts here.

©2008 True Value Company. All rights reserved.

Maintain a beautiful lawn & garden without pesticides.

Plants that are chemically fertilized may look lush, but traditional fertilizing promotes plants that are more susceptible to disease. Chemicals from the fertilizer infuse the soil and, ultimately, contaminate our water supply. Using an all-natural fertilizer balances the pH of the soil, is environmentally safe and not harmful to animals, plants or you.

What you put on your walls should stay on your walls.

According to the EPA, indoor air is considered to be one of the top five hazards to human health. Traditional household paint contains toxins that can still be released into the air years after application. Use low-VOC products for better air quality.

Make the switch to CFL bulbs. Consider using compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs). You’ll lower your electric bill and pay less in the long run—CFLs last up to 10 times longer than traditional bulbs. To save even more on lighting, install dimmer switches and use timers, both indoors and out. You’ll find a complete selection of CFL bulbs, dimmer switches and timers at your local True Value.

Conserve water and lower your water bills. Install water- efficient showerheads. With the new low-flow models now available, a family of four can cut water usage by as much as 280 gallons a month—and yet not feel much difference in water pressure.

Statistical information from epa.gov

Your Greener Options

Shopping List

Make the world a more sustainable place with the right products from True Value.

All-natural,  organic ingredients won’t contaminate the water supply

Organic Potting Mix

Compost Maker

Plant and mineral-based natural cleaning products

Mini compact fluorescent bulbs use less energy and last longer

✓ CFL Bulbs

Solar LIghting

Light Timers

Low-VOC products reduce toxic emissions

✓ Silicone Window & Door Caulk

Porch & Floor Coating

Low-VOC Paint

Increased water pressure results in less water used

✓ Water Timers

Fill Valves

Water-Amplifying Shower Head

Need help finding these products? Just ask the friendly experts right here.

Build a Closet Organizer


 

Build a Closet Organizer From Truevalue.com

Closets are one of the most used areas of a house and usually the least organized. With a little work you can double your closet’s storage capacity and nicely organize it. So instead of spending time searching for clothes you can do more productive things – like shop for them.

This project is an easy-to-make system that’s adaptable to fit your needs and is a fraction of the price of store-bought kits. It combines a shelving unit in the middle (you can leave it open or add drawers) with two rods on one side (for short clothes like shirts, pants, sport coats, etc.) and one rod for long clothes (dresses, coats, etc.) on the other side. There are storage shelves over the rods as well.

 

Tools Checklist

□ Block of wood

□ Hammer

□ Flat pry bar

□ Stud finder

□ Pliers

□ Tape measure

□ Level

□ Pencil

□ Saber saw

□ Masking tape

□ Sandpaper

□ Paint brushes

□ Hacksaw

□ Electric drill with screwdriver attachment

 

 

Materials Checklist

□ Primer

□ Paint

□ 2-pcs. of ¾-in. plywood (20-in. deep and your selected height) for unit

□ ¾-in. plywood (20-in. deep & your selected width) for shelves

□ 2-pcs. of ¾-in. plywood shelving that are 12-in. deep and long enough to go from side of unit to wall

□ 2 closet flanges with the diameter of closet rod

□ 3 closet rods (you determine length)

□ 24-in. long 1×2 wood

□ 1-in. screws (approximately 18)

□ ½-in. screws (approximately 20)

□ 4 shelving standards

□ 4 shelf clips for each shelf

□ 4 angle brackets

□ 4 combination brackets

□ 2, 2-in. screws

□ Drawers with runners (optional)

 

 

Step 1. Disassemble the Closet

It is important to completely remove and save the existing shelf and pole parts from the closet because you can reuse them. A shelf and pole system is easy to remove without damage because the individual parts are usually not glued together. The order of removal is important. First, remove the clothes pole and the center support bracket (if one exists). Next, use a block of wood and a hammer at the underside of the shelf and tap upward to remove it. The block, placed between the shelf and the hammer, reduces the chance of splitting wood. Finally, remove the support strips (you will not need to remove the pole brackets from the side supports) with a hammer and a flat pry bar.

 

Tip: Using the Pry Bar

Prying between the support strip and the wallboard can damage the wallboard. So, make sure to pry at locations on the wall where studs exist. Don’t drive nails back through the parts that you have removed. Doing so may damage the finished surface. Instead use a pair of pliers to pull the nails through the bottom side of the shelf and the backside of the support strips.

 

Step 2. Design the Closet Organizer Use a stud finder to locate the studs behind the closet walls. Then use a tape measure to get the dimensions of your closet and the distance between the studs. Measure your longest short clothes already hanging and add 3 inches. The lower rod on the side with 2 rods should be 3 inches lower than the bottom of the short clothes to give room for the hangers. Remember, the brackets at the ends of the rods need to be attached to studs. The sides of the shelving unit attach to studs as well. See diagram in Step 4 for recommended measurements of shelves and rods.

 

Step 3. Draw Level Layout Lines Measure where the top shelves over the rods are going to be. Use a level and mark in pencil a line long enough to be a guide for the shelf brackets.

 

 

Step 4. Cut Plywood for Shelving Sides and Over-the-Rod Shelves Use the saber saw to cut the 2 side pieces for the shelving unit as well as the 2 shelves for over the closet rods. When cutting the plywood, the front (finished side) needs to face down to avoid splintering it. To keep from splintering the back, cover the cut line with masking tape before you cut. Sand the shelves and sides. The shelves for the unit are cut in Step 8.

 

Step 5. Paint Shelving Sides and Over- the-Rod Shelves Apply primer and paint to the shelves and the sides. It is easier to paint these before you put them up. The shelves for the shelving units are painted in Step 8.

 

Step 6. Attach Standards to Shelving Unit Use a hacksaw to cut the shelving standards so that they are long enough to run from the top of the shelving side to the bottom. Attach standards, using 1/2-inch screws, on both sides of each shelving side. They are placed 1-inch in from the front and back ends. There are numbers stamped on the standard and they should be right side up.

 

Step 7. Attach Sides of Shelving Unit

Attach an angle bracket to the top and the bottom of the shelving side using the 1/2-inch screws. Place the side at a right angle to the wall and use the level to make sure the side is vertical. The side needs to be positioned so that the other end of the angle bracket is on the stud. Mark on the wall where the holes in the angle bracket are. Drill 1-inch screws through the bracket, attaching it to the wall stud. Repeat with the other side. (See diagram at left.)

 

Step 8. Cut and Paint Shelves for Unit Measure the shelves to make sure they fit between the shelving standards. Cut and sand if they are too wide. Paint the shelves and allow them to dry. Put the shelf clips into the standards (count the holes in the standard or use the numbers stamped on the standard as guides so the clips are at the same height) and insert the shelves.

 

Step 9. Attach Upper Shelves and Rod Brackets Attach the combination brackets to the wall studs using the 1-inch screws. Use the lines marked on the wall as guides. Put the rod into the combination bracket and attach the shelf to the bracket, using 1-inch screws. Repeat this for the other shelf with a rod.

 

Step 10. Attach Lower Rod On the wall, measure down the wall to where you are putting the closet rod and make a mark. Measure 12-inches from the back of the closet and mark so that you have an “X” where the rod goes. Mark 2 lines with a pencil that are 1 inch above and 1-inch below the “X”. Find the studs on either side of the “X” and measure the distance between the two studs. Cut the 1×2 board that length, this is what the flange is affixed to. Using the 2-inch screws, attach the 1×2 piece to the studs. The piece should be between the two lines. Measure the distance from the 1×2 to the shelving side. Cut the closet rod ¼-inch shorter than this distance (this makes it easier to slide the rod into place). Slip the 2 flanges onto the rod, one for each end. Slide the rod into position. Use the level to make the rod horizontal. Attach the flange to the 1×2 using 1-inch screws and attach the other flange to the shelving side using 1/2-inch screws.

 

Step 11. Install Drawers (optional) If you want drawers, you can attach drawer runners to the side or bottom of the shelves in the shelving unit. Attach these runners using the 1/2-inch screws. If the runners go on the sides, you might have to cut them so that they fit between the shelving standards.

 

For more decorating & home improvement projects visit http://www.truevalue.com before you start!